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Dos Mosquises, part of the stunning Los Roques archipelago, is a pair of islands known for their ecological significance, rich history, and breathtaking beauty. These islands are home to the Los Roques Scientific Foundation, an archaeological site, and a magnificent beach that captivates every visitor.

Since the 1970s, the Los Roques Scientific Foundation has been a hub for research and environmental education. Its founders played a key role in the creation of the Los Roques National Park, and the foundation continues to contribute to vital studies in coral reef biology, fisheries, anthropology, and the archaeology of the archipelago.

After landing on the island, our first stop was the turtle breeding center, where sea turtles are nurtured in large tanks filled with fresh, running seawater. Edgar, one of the three caretakers, kindly gave us a tour, explaining the fascinating process. Newly hatched turtles are collected and raised in these controlled conditions to ensure their survival. After about a year, once they are stronger and have a better chance of thriving in the wild, they are released back into the ocean—a vital step in preserving these beautiful creatures.

Edgar also guided us to an incredible archaeological site. In 1982, Polish archaeologists Andrzej and Maria Antczak unearthed hundreds of ritual ceramic figurines on this island, dating back to the 13th-15th centuries AD. During this pre-Columbian era, the Amerindians—aboriginal inhabitants of the mainland (present-day Venezuela)—embarked on sea expeditions to Dos Mosquises to harvest the Queen Conch. These ancient mariners brought their cultural artifacts, including ceramic figurines, on their canoes. It is believed that these figurines were likely used in ritual ceremonies, providing a fascinating glimpse into their spiritual and cultural practices.

Beyond its cultural and ecological treasures, Dos Mosquises is a paradise for nature lovers. Strolling along the pristine shoreline, we were treated to the sight of abundant birdlife and vibrant coral reefs teeming with marine life.

Our time on this remarkable island was truly unforgettable—an enriching blend of history, conservation, and natural wonder.

On the second day of our stay on the beautiful island Grand Los Testigos, we decided to sail over to the neighboring North Observation Bay, home to a small fishing village. We were eager to meet Venezuelan fishermen on their native land, having previously lived near them in Coral Cove Marina, where they generously shared their fresh catch with us.

We anchored right in front of the village, which boasted a picturesque beach. The village was quiet, likely because it was the weekend, and many of the fishermen had traveled to the mainland. One boat, however, was bustling with activity—women were preparing nets, and men were equipping the boat for fishing.

Launching our SUP, we paddled to shore like primitive seafarers on a pirogue—or maybe the reverse. On the beach, we found an elderly couple sitting in their yard among the smoky haze of a fire meant to ward off mosquitoes. They were calmly mending nets. Our limited Spanish got us through a polite greeting, and though we couldn’t converse much, the simplicity of the scene left an impression.

We wandered along the shore, adding to our collection of photo memories. When we reached the far end of the beach, a commotion drew us back to where we had first arrived. A cacophony of frigatebirds circled above an incoming boat, their cries signaling an exciting find. As we hurried back, we discovered a feeding frenzy as the birds snatched discarded fish scraps from the water.

A friendly woman approached us, holding a freshly caught and still very much alive spiny lobster. She offered it to us with the words: “No dinero” (No money). This put us in a tough spot—our unspoken rule is to avoid killing beautiful sea creatures. Years ago, during a trip to Nova Scotia in 2005, we’d bought a live lobster for a birthday dinner, only to end up releasing it into the ocean. Since then, we’ve avoided live lobsters, spiny lobsters, crabs, and even fish when possible. But here, faced with a generous gift from the heart of the fishing village, we had to make a choice.

Iryna, ever the diplomat, asked if we could trade the lobster for a dead fish instead. The villagers were happy to oblige and offered us a large tuna, which they called Bonito. It was more than enough for three delicious dinners. Thank you, kind residents of the fishing village!

As we prepared to leave, a woman approached us with a simple but heartfelt request—did we have Wi-Fi on board? Her daughter needed to get in touch. We gladly shared our password, and it was heartwarming to see the connection bring joy.

Whether it’s fish or the Internet, sharing what you have is a beautiful rule of neighborliness—and one we’re happy to live by.

Los Testidos Islands (Witness Islands) are located far from the Windward Islands and Trinidad, making them very tempting for lovers of secluded anchorages to visit. We anchored in South Observation Bay, which was remarkable for us. The archipelago includes 6 islands, inhabited by a population of two hundred fishermen and a coast guard garrison. The Coast Guard did not fail to visit us immediately and conduct a detailed inspection of the boat. Not finding anything prohibited for import, they wished us a pleasant pastime during the permitted 48 hours, which we took advantage of. The uniqueness of the island of Grand Testidos is made by a huge mountainous sand dune, thrown across the island and filling the entire underwater coast with sand – this makes the water near the coast look azure, again reminding us of the waters of the Bahamas. We walked along this sand mountain from shore to shore, coming out to the windward side of the Caribbean Sea. It seems that the constant and strong easterly winds simply throw the sand from one side to the other. It was a great disappointment to see masses of plastic bottles brought here by the Caribbean current from the Windward Islands – is this not evidence of the harmfulness of using plastic bottles? The Witness Islands have witnessed plastic madness, probably, instead, it would like to witness human intelligence. Kill plastic before it kills you!