Author: Igor

As the crew of SV Oceanolog continued our exploration of Cartagena, we could not miss the opportunity to visit one of the most iconic landmarks of the city—the mighty San Felipe de Barajas Castle. Rising above the city on the Hill of San Lázaro, this formidable fortress is a testament to Cartagena’s turbulent past and its strategic importance during the colonial era.

Built by the Spanish in 1536 and later expanded in 1657, San Felipe de Barajas was designed to withstand both time and invaders. Its imposing walls, intricate network of tunnels, and strategic vantage points made it nearly impenetrable, fending off numerous attacks, including the infamous assault by the French pirate Baron de Pointis in 1697. Standing before its immense stone walls, we felt transported back to an era when this fortress was the last line of defense against those who sought to claim Cartagena’s riches.

We climbed the steep ramparts, following the pathways where Spanish soldiers once marched, and marveled at the panoramic view of the city and the Caribbean Sea beyond. From this height, the contrast between the historic old town and the modern skyline of Cartagena was breathtaking—a visual representation of the city’s evolution through centuries.

One of the most fascinating features of San Felipe is its labyrinth of underground tunnels, designed to carry sound over long distances, allowing defenders to hear approaching enemies before they could strike. Some passages remain open to visitors, and walking through these dimly lit corridors, we could almost hear the echoes of history whispering through the stone.

Our visit to San Felipe de Barajas was more than just a tour—it was a step back in time, a chance to immerse ourselves in Cartagena’s rich heritage and resilience. As sailors, we appreciate fortifications like these, which once protected maritime trade routes and the treasures of the New World. Leaving the fortress behind, we carried with us a deeper understanding of the history that shaped this beautiful and vibrant city.

Upon arriving in Cartagena, we docked at Club de Pesca Marina, uniquely located within the historic Fort San Sebastián del Pastelillo—one of the city’s former Spanish forts. Our exploration began with the nearest neighborhood, Getsemaní, just a 10-minute walk from the marina, crossing the bridge that links Isla de Manga to the city center.

Once a working-class district, Getsemaní has transformed into the creative and cultural heart of Cartagena, home to artists, musicians, and artisans. The area is full of vibrant street art, colorful colonial facades, and charming balconies draped with flowers. The architecture, with its intricately carved porticoes and pilasters, is a delightful mix of historical elegance and artistic expression. The streets pulse with life—street musicians, open-air cafés, and bustling plazas create an intoxicating rhythm that invites you to wander for hours, always discovering something new.

At the heart of Getsemaní lies Plaza de la Trinidad, a lively square where both locals and visitors gather, surrounded by small bars, restaurants, and street vendors offering delicious local snacks like arepas and empanadas. The district is also known for its affordable boutique hotels and lively nightlife, making it a hotspot for travelers.

Just beyond Getsemaní, we visited Parque Centenario, a green oasis where iguanas, monkeys, and sloths roam freely—an unexpected urban wildlife encounter! Nearby, the Pegasus Pier (Muelle de los Pegasos), adorned with grand statues of winged horses, offers stunning views of Cartagena’s modern skyline, with its towering skyscrapers contrasting sharply against the colonial charm of the old city. From the waterfront, we could even spot our yacht, Oceanolog, nestled at the edge of the marina, completing the picture of our arrival in this remarkable city.