The Salt Mountains of Bonaire

As SV Oceanolog approached the shores of Bonaire, the white mountains of sea salt and shimmering pink expanses of the island’s iconic salt flats came into view—a striking contrast to the deep blue of the Caribbean Sea. For me, dedicated to studying how to determine ocean salinity, this landscape of salt mounds and evaporation ponds was more than just a spectacle; it was a link between nature’s processes and human ingenuity.

Bonaire’s saltworks are not only a significant part of the island’s history but also an example of how humans have harnessed the ocean’s salinity for centuries. The process begins with seawater flowing into shallow ponds, where the sun and wind work tirelessly to evaporate the water, leaving behind crystalline salt deposits. The vibrant pink hues of the salt ponds are due to halophilic microorganisms thriving in the hypersaline environment—an ecosystem shaped by the very salinity we measure in the open sea.

The connection between Bonaire’s saltworks and our oceanographic studies lies in the shared reliance on salinity as a cornerstone of understanding our planet. While the saltworks use salinity to produce one of humanity’s most essential minerals, our work aboard SV Oceanolog focuses on how salinity, alongside temperature, influences ocean circulation, climate, and marine ecosystems.

Standing among the gleaming white salt mounds, I couldn’t help but draw parallels between the saltworks and the intricate dynamics of the ocean. The same seawater that sustains the salt industry is part of a vast global system—its salinity shaped by evaporation, precipitation, and currents. By collecting salinity data, we contribute to understanding these processes on a planetary scale, helping to answer critical questions about climate change and ocean health.

For the crew of SV Oceanolog, the visit to Bonaire’s saltworks wasn’t just a stop on their journey but a reminder of how interconnected human activity and the natural world are. From the evaporation ponds of Bonaire to the CTD casts in the open sea, salinity serves as a silent thread weaving together the story of our oceans and the lives they sustain. 🌊

Beautiful Bonaire: Kralendijk

The journey aboard SV Oceanolog brought us to one of the Caribbean’s hidden gems—Bonaire, the island of pristine coral reefs and endless shades of turquoise. As we sailed into Kralendijk, the island’s charming capital, we were greeted by the warm breeze and calm waters that made the mooring feel like an invitation to stay forever.

Tying up to a mooring buoy just off the coast, we had an unobstructed view of Bonaire’s colorful waterfront, a picturesque collage of pastel-hued Dutch architecture. The vibrant energy of Kralendijk is undeniable, from its bustling local markets to its serene, sandy beaches that seem untouched by time.

For sailors, Bonaire is a treasure trove. The waters surrounding the island are part of the Bonaire National Marine Park, offering some of the most spectacular snorkeling and diving opportunities in the Caribbean. Even from the deck of Oceanolog, we could spot vibrant fish darting among coral reefs in the crystal-clear waters.

Each evening, the setting sun painted the sky in hues of orange and purple, reflecting off the water and reminding us of the beauty and serenity that can only be found in places like this. Kralendijk was more than a stop—it was a moment to breathe, reflect, and connect with the ocean and its rhythm.

Sailing is not just about moving from one place to another; it’s about experiencing the world from a perspective few get to enjoy. Bonaire, with its captivating charm and natural beauty, will forever be one of our favorite memories of this voyage aboard SV Oceanolog. 🌊⛵

The last Venezuelian frontier

Our final stop in Venezuela before embarking on the decisive crossing of the Caribbean Sea to Bonaire brought us to the remote Islas Las Aves. Approaching the islands under the cover of darkness, we were guided only by the faint light of a searchlight from the Coast Guard station. As we tuned into VHF channel 16, a calm, pleasant female voice in English asked who we were and where we were headed on this dark and stormy night.

We explained that we planned to drop anchor in the bay opposite the station. In response, a stream of Spanish followed—unfortunately, beyond our understanding. Without further ado, we anchored for the night, hoping all was in order.

The following morning, a small boat approached us carrying three Coast Guard officers, who came aboard to check our documents and conduct a ship inspection—our fourth one so far. This time, their curiosity focused on the contents of our first aid kit. Thankfully, there was no drug inspection, and their demeanor was polite and friendly throughout.

Despite their limited English, the officers smiled warmly and made an effort to communicate. Together, we even compared the names of the months in Spanish and English, delighting in how similar they sounded. Their enthusiasm was contagious, and the language exchange left everyone smiling.

Seizing the moment, we asked if we could explore the shores of the nearby islands. To our delight, they granted us permission for the entire next day, with the simple request that we report back to them when we departed.

Grateful for their hospitality, we looked forward to an unexpected extra day in this beautiful and tranquil corner of Venezuela. Thank you, kind sailors, for letting us linger just a little longer on your enchanting islands!