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Watching Giants Pass: Panama Canal’s Miraflores Locks

As sailors, few feats of engineering inspire more awe than the Panama Canal—a waterway that connects not only oceans but entire worlds. So during our stopover in Panama, the crew of SV Oceanolog made a pilgrimage to the Miraflores Visitors Center, a front-row seat to the maritime marvel that has shaped global trade and navigation for over a century.

Arriving at the center, we were immediately struck by the scale of the operation. From the observation deck, we watched in fascination as massive car ships, tankers, and bulk carriers slowly transited the Miraflores Locks, rising and falling like leviathans tamed by human ingenuity. For sailors accustomed to narrow island anchorages and coral reefs, it was surreal to see vessels the size of city blocks lifted and lowered by nothing more than gravity, gears, and water.

Inside the center, we explored exhibits detailing the canal’s construction, its complex lock systems, and its environmental significance. But beyond the mechanics and history, our visit brought a new layer of reflection. The canal represents not just a shortcut between oceans, but a symbol of human persistence, cooperation, and adaptation. It reminded us of the importance of ocean-connected infrastructure—and of the delicate balance between industry and environment that must be maintained.

As we left the center and returned to Oceanolog, we carried with us a deeper appreciation for the canal, and for the global marine network we, in our small way, are also part of. Watching the giants pass through Miraflores, we were reminded that every boat, big or small, is connected by the same blue highways.

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Old Stones and New Perspectives: Exploring Casco Viejo

After weeks surrounded by sea and palm-fringed islands, the crew of SV Oceanolog traded the sound of waves for cobblestones as we stepped into the heart of Panama City’s historic district—Casco Viejo. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a captivating blend of colonial architecture, colorful plazas, fading grandeur, and vibrant street life.

Wandering its narrow streets, we felt like time travelers: every corner told a story. Restored mansions now house cafés and boutique hotels, while weathered buildings still wear their centuries with quiet dignity. The contrast between peeling paint and polished marble, broken shutters and rooftop cocktails, was oddly harmonious. It was a place where the past didn’t compete with the present—it simply lived alongside it.

One of the highlights of our visit was climbing the bell tower of the San Francisco Church, one of the oldest churches in the city. After navigating a winding staircase and several creaky wooden steps, we emerged to a panoramic view that took our breath away. From the top, we could see all of Casco Viejo spread out below—terracotta rooftops, lush courtyards, bustling plazas—and beyond, the glittering skyline of modern Panama City and the distant curve of the Panama Canal.

It was a moment of perspective, both literal and symbolic. Up there, wind in our hair and history underfoot, we were reminded of the intricate connections between land and sea, old and new, adventure and reflection.

Casco Viejo offered us more than a break from the boat—it was a walk through centuries of culture, resilience, and reinvention. And as we descended from the bell tower and made our way back to the marina, we carried with us not only the view, but the sense of how every voyage—no matter how salty—needs an anchoring in history.

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Exploring the Forgotten Fort: A Visit to Fort Sherman

During our stay at Shelter Bay Marina, we had the unique opportunity to visit the nearby ruins of Fort Sherman—a sprawling coastal defense complex built by the United States in the early 20th century to protect the northern entrance of the Panama Canal.

Constructed just before World War I, Fort Sherman was part of a broader network of fortifications guarding the canal from both land and sea. Tucked away in the jungle near Colón, these overgrown ruins now stand as silent witnesses to a time when global powers invested enormous resources in defending strategic maritime routes.

Walking through the site felt like stepping back in time. Concrete bunkers and massive gun emplacements—now slowly being reclaimed by the rainforest—hint at the scale and ambition of the original installation. Moss-covered walls, rusting rail tracks, and empty observation towers evoke images of soldiers stationed here to watch for threats from sea or air.

Though nature has taken its toll, the site retains a haunting beauty. Vines curl around the reinforced walls, and tropical birds now patrol where artillery once stood. It’s easy to forget that this peaceful, green space was once on high alert, guarding one of the most critical waterways in the world.

For us, the visit was both fascinating and sobering. The Panama Canal has always been more than a route between two oceans—it’s a geopolitical lifeline. Fort Sherman reminds us of the strategic importance of this narrow strip of land, and of the human effort once poured into its defense.

Today, Fort Sherman is largely abandoned, its history quietly fading beneath the canopy. But for those who take the time to explore it, the fort offers a powerful glimpse into the military past of the Panama Canal Zone—and a chance to reflect on how the world’s priorities have changed.