Wild Wonders of Isla Bastimentos

During our stay at Isla Bastimentos, one of the most ecologically vibrant islands in Panama’s Caribbean, the crew of SV Oceanolog was treated to a spectacular display of tropical wildlife. Anchoring at Red Frog Marina, nestled within the island’s national marine park, we were immediately immersed in a world teeming with life—on land, in the trees, and in the skies above.

Our exploration began on the lush jungle trails that crisscross the island. The air was heavy with the scent of damp earth and wildflowers, and the canopy buzzed with the energy of the rainforest. It wasn’t long before we had our first encounter—a family of white-faced capuchin monkeys, agile and curious, swinging from branches just overhead. Their expressive eyes followed us from a safe distance, while the younger ones showed off with playful leaps and chatter.

Further along, the slow, deliberate movement of a three-toed sloth caught our attention. Draped lazily over a tree branch, it seemed completely unbothered by our presence. We paused for a while, marveling at this gentle icon of the rainforest, camouflaged perfectly against the mossy bark.

Closer to the forest floor, we discovered the island’s namesake amphibian—the elusive strawberry poison dart frog, more commonly known here as the red frog. Barely the size of a thumb and shockingly bright, these tiny guardians of the jungle were everywhere once we learned how to spot them. Their vivid coloration warns predators of their toxicity—a striking example of nature’s built-in defense systems.

Birdwatching on Bastimentos turned out to be an unexpected highlight. We spotted the brilliant flashes of manakins flitting through the understory with their characteristic quick, darting movements. High in the canopy, the Montezuma oropendola impressed us with its gurgling, bubbling call and its striking yellow tail feathers, swinging gracefully from its hanging nest.

The palette of tropical birds continued to amaze us. We saw the red-rumped tanager, its crimson splash vivid against a backdrop of green. A sharp-eyed roadside hawk kept watch from a high perch, scanning for prey with stoic patience. And the unmistakable call of the great kiskadee—equal parts shriek and melody—became the soundtrack of our mornings.

Every corner of Isla Bastimentos brought a new encounter, a new story of coexistence between nature and the few humans who call this island home. The diversity and richness of life here reminded us of why we sail, why we observe, and why we contribute to the preservation of these irreplaceable ecosystems.

As part of our Sail for Science mission, these moments in nature ground our scientific work in purpose. It’s not just about collecting data—it’s about understanding and protecting the world we sail through. Isla Bastimentos was more than a waypoint on our journey. It was a living classroom, a refuge, and a reminder of the wild beauty that still thrives, when given the space and respect to do so.

Red Frogs and Warm Welcomes: SV Oceanolog at Bocas del Toro

Arriving in Bocas del Toro, our first task was to find a suitable marina where we could repair the engine of our dinghy—an essential piece of equipment for any cruising sailor. After considering our options, we chose Red Frog Marina, located on Isla Bastimentos. It turned out to be the perfect choice, not just for its facilities, but for its natural setting and warm hospitality.

From the moment we arrived, we were warmly welcomed by the marina manager, who showed genuine interest in our Sail for Science project. He even offered us a generous discount on our stay—a gesture we truly appreciated. As is our tradition in such cases, we proudly listed Red Frog Marina among our project’s supporters, placing their logo and a link on the front page of our website.

The marina is part of the larger Red Frog Beach Resort, a thoughtfully developed community that blends luxury with environmental awareness. The resort features beautiful villas and apartments, a beachside restaurant with a swimming pool, and access to well-maintained hiking trails through tropical rainforest—some of which lead into Bastimentos Island National Marine Park.

The forest is alive with biodiversity—colorful birds, curious mammals, and, of course, the iconic red frog that gives the marina its name. These tiny amphibians are endemic to the region and a delight to spot along the trails.

We took some time to explore the resort, strolling past villas nestled both on hills with panoramic views of the Caribbean and others perched just steps from the shoreline. Each property comes with its own swimming pool and an electric golf cart for getting around—an eco-friendly touch that fits the island’s vibe. Some villas are available for rent, others for sale, and a few are home to retirees enjoying island life at its finest. Here is information about this resort: https://www.redfrogproperty.com/

Our time at Red Frog Marina was not just productive—we managed to sort out the dinghy repairs—but also relaxing and enriching. It reminded us how important it is to find places where nature, community, and sustainability come together. And in that respect, Red Frog truly delivered.

Guardians of the Nest: A Visit to Cayos Zapatilla

Our next stop on the journey to Bocas del Toro was Cayo Zapatilla I—one of two small islands that make up part of Panama’s Bastimentos Island National Marine Park. This protected area was established primarily to conserve critical nesting sites for endangered sea turtles, particularly the hawksbill turtle.

As we approached the island, its white sandy beaches and lush greenery looked like a scene from a postcard. But beneath the beauty lies an important mission: turtle conservation. On shore, we were welcomed by two incredible volunteers, Rita from Portugal and Debbie from Israel. They are part of a rotating team of international volunteers who live on the island in rather Spartan conditions, often for up to five months at a time.

Their days are simple, but their nights are critical—they take turns keeping watch, patrolling the beach in darkness to document nesting turtles, protect the eggs, and mark the nests for monitoring. They are joined by two young local Guna Yala men, but the project has recently suffered a setback: due to a suspension of U.S. funding, many local staff members have lost their jobs, leaving a heavier burden on the shoulders of the volunteers.

Despite the challenges, their commitment is inspiring. These unsung heroes are truly on the front lines of conservation, quietly helping to ensure that future generations of turtles can return to these very beaches to nest.

The next morning, Rita and Debbie swam to visit us aboard SV Oceanolog (our dinghy’s engine was flooded). We welcomed them warmly and shared the story of our own project, Sail for Science, demonstrating our CTD measuring system used to collect oceanographic data across the Caribbean.

This unexpected exchange reminded us of the power of grassroots efforts and international cooperation in protecting our oceans. It’s not only about scientific instruments or government programs—it’s also about people like Rita and Debbie, who dedicate their time and energy to a cause greater than themselves.

We left Cayo Zapatilla humbled and hopeful. Encounters like this reaffirm our belief that collaboration between sailors, scientists, volunteers, and local communities is essential. We hope that more support—both governmental and philanthropic—will flow toward projects like this.

Together, we sail. Together, we protect. Together, we win.