Month: September 2023

We debated for quite a while about whether to make a 4-mile detour from our planned route, but the description of the marina, complete with hiking trails, tipped the scales in favour of Liscombe Lodge Marina. And let me tell you, our decision paid off big time. We stumbled upon an absolute gem – not only did we find a fantastic hiking trail, but we also got a bargain on anchorage at just 50 dollars, and it even came with a swimming pool and a jacuzzi! Yes, you heard that right – a yachtsman’s dream come true – the perfect combo of stretching our sea legs and steaming our bodies.

This delightful marina is nestled within Liscombe Lodge, which could be a bonus for those who fancy spending time in the lodge, grabbing a bite at the restaurant, or perhaps even renting a room. But as for us, we’re content with our trusty bed and breakfast right on our boat.

Now, let’s talk about that hiking trail. It meandered along the river, treating us to views of cascading waterfalls. We were forewarned that the trail might be a bit wet, so we wisely put on our yachting boots. As we approached the river, we were taken aback by the copious amount of white foam on the surface. However, it turned out that this frothy phenomenon was a result of organic matter being washed away from the local rocks, creating this mesmerizing foam as the water tumbled over the waterfalls.

After a 5-kilometer trek, we finally arrived at a suspension bridge that offered a breathtaking view of a magnificent waterfall, framed by rugged cliffs. And as if that wasn’t enough, we stumbled upon a salmon ladder, a specially carved path to help salmon on their way. Sure, the trail was a bit on the soggy side at times, with water occasionally creeping up almost to the tops of our boots, but the sights we beheld were worth every step and splash!

Port Felix had a few surprises for us. Our friend Ray, who had been our neighbour during the ‘Oceanolog’ wintering at Morrisburg Marina, had a brilliant suggestion for our stay in Port Felix. He recommended that we dock at a private wharf for free: the house of his sister Denise was there facing the peer. The excitement in the air, we arrived just before the sun went down, greeted by the serene solitude – no internet, not even a hint of mobile service! Naturally, this meant we couldn’t inform Denise of our arrival. However, the night turned out to be nothing short of magical. 

As we ventured onto the deck to admire the stars, the profound silence enveloped our senses. But to our delight, the night wasn’t as quiet as we expected. It began with the haunting hoot of a great horned owl, piercing the veil of darkness. Soon, we found ourselves serenaded by a symphony of unfamiliar sounds echoing in the distance – mysterious groans, sighs, and plaintive howls. They were harmonized by the haunting calls of two loons. I grabbed a flashlight, hoping to unveil the enigmatic creatures behind these sounds, but alas, the source remained elusive, hidden in the shroud of the night. Yet, beneath the dock’s edge, a mesmerizing sight awaited us – graceful sea anemones, swaying their petals under the water’s surface. It was a night of pure enchantment.

Denise, Toze, and Mouski (their dog, proudly named after Rimouski, Denise’s hometown) were at the dock early in the morning. They showered us with a warm and hospitable welcome, serving up a delightful breakfast before embarking on a tour of their beloved village. Together, we explored Port Felix, making cherished acquaintances with the locals, and even tried our hand at mackerel fishing off Toze’s preferred pier – the promise of big fish lingered in the salty air. Our fishing endeavours yielded no catches, but boredom was far from our minds as we were entertained by the vibrant wildlife. A curious seal kept a hopeful watch over us, anticipating a treat. A cormorant dove so close that I feared it might become an unintended catch, but in the end, it skillfully pilfered a fish from our neighbor’s hook and swam away, content in its conquest. An otter made a brief but endearing appearance, circling us with an inquisitive gaze before gracefully vanishing into the depths.

Port Felix, with its population of fewer than a hundred, thrives as a humble fishing village, its livelihood centred around lobster, halibut, and shrimp harvesting. One of the village’s standout attractions is a lookout point, offering breathtaking vistas of the picturesque harbour, meticulously designed in homage to Basque Captain Savalett’s ship. Our day concluded with a heartwarming dinner shared in perfect harmony. Denise presented us with warm socks – she knitted them herself! – and a little painted rock collected on Port Felix’s shore. While we couldn’t predict the future, one thing was certain – Denise and Toze had etched their place in our hearts with unforgettable memories.

As we navigated across Chedabucto Bay, we finally reached the ‘mainland’ of Nova Scotia and pulled into the bustling fishing wharf of Canso. As we explored the intricacies of this fishing port and meandered through the charming streets, we couldn’t help but notice an intriguing sight – posters plastered in the windows of many houses declaring, ‘We say NO to the Canso spaceport!’

Our curiosity piqued, we sought to unravel the story behind this fervent movement. It wasn’t long before we had the opportunity to chat with Jim Geddes, a passionate activist leading the charge against the Canadian-Ukrainian spaceport project. We listened as he articulated their perspective, and it became apparent that more than 400 local residents had joined forces to voice their dissent against having a spaceport right in their backyard.

The crux of their concerns? The proposed spaceport sat a mere 3 km from their homes and a scant 3.2 km from the local hospital and nursing home. Not to mention, it was nestled just 4 km from the Barrens Protected Wilderness Area, a haven for wildlife, and a crucial migratory bird stopover. The potential risks of rocket launches, especially ones with questionable reliability, weighed heavily on their minds. The prospect of rocket fragments raining down from the sky was enough to give anyone pause.

For us, as Canadian-Ukrainians, it was vital to empathize with their anxieties about the future of life in Canso. We imagined the unsettling scenario of rockets with uncertain fates launching just a stone’s throw from their homes and vital social structures. In solidarity with the residents of Canso, we wholeheartedly support their quest for a peaceful and secure future.

Amidst this thought-provoking encounter, we also stumbled upon a local hero, Nelson, the skilled mechanic who took on the Herculean task of troubleshooting and repairing the persistent fuel leak in our engine. It was a problem that had been gnawing at our nerves, but with Nelson’s expertise, we held out hope for a smoother journey ahead.