Author: Igor

One of the most rewarding parts of sailing is the opportunity to meet fascinating people in extraordinary places. Bocas del Toro is no exception—this vibrant archipelago is home to a colorful community of expats who have built their dream homes amidst its lush landscapes.

Among them is Mia, a spirited South African woman who welcomed us with open arms. She moved here four years ago, settling into a villa nestled within 18 hectares of tropical forest. Her husband still works in South Africa, but Mia holds down the fort—alongside four energetic dogs—in what they affectionately call their own “Wonderland.”

From the very first moment we met Mia on the dock, we felt a wave of warmth and genuine hospitality. Her easy smile and joyful curiosity set the tone for our visit. Right there by the dock, we noticed a whimsical detail: a neat row of muddy boots and hiking poles, waiting like silent sentinels. It turns out that exploring Wonderland often means navigating squishy jungle trails, and these tools are essential for a joyful (and upright) adventure.

And so, off we went—boots on, poles in hand, spirits high. Because when Wonderland calls, you don’t say no.

After weeks of exploring the wild beauty and remote islands of the Caribbean coast, the crew of SV Oceanolog sailed into the heart of civilization—Bocas del Toro, the lively main town of the archipelago. Tucked on the northern coast of Isla Colón, Bocas is a colorful blend of Caribbean charm, surf-town energy, and Panamanian hospitality.

We moored at Bocas Marina, a laid-back but well-equipped marina just a short panga ride from town. The facilities were a welcome treat—clean docks, friendly staff, and a quiet atmosphere perfect for recovering from our long stretch off-grid. The marina also serves as a gathering spot for sailors from around the world, and as usual, Oceanolog became a small hub for conversations about oceanography, adventure, and the “Sail for Science” project.

Once settled, we headed ashore to explore. Bocas Town is a buzzing waterfront hub, with wooden buildings painted in bright Caribbean colors, reggae floating in the air, and a lively mix of locals, backpackers, and surfers. The streets are full of small eateries, fruit vendors, and dive shops. Though touristy, the town retains a certain authenticity—it’s easy to feel at home here.

We resupplied at local markets, stocked up on fresh produce, and finally indulged in an ice cream.

After a few days of recharging, refueling, and reconnecting with the outside world, we were ready to continue the journey. The wild jungle trails, starfish-strewn beaches, and quiet anchorages of Bocas still waited.

Sometimes, even in paradise, a pit stop in town is just what you need.

When we dropped anchor off Starfish Beach on Isla Colón, we were greeted not only by the gentle lapping of waves, but by an unfamiliar, enchanting song echoing from the treetops. Perched high on a bare branch, as if performing on stage, was a striking bird we had never seen before.

It was the three-wattled bellbird (Procnias tricarunculatus), its name as unique as its call—a surreal, metallic “bong” that sounds like a distant bell tolling through the forest. A rare treat for bird lovers, and a proud moment for the bird itself, clearly showing off.

As if on cue, the bellbird launched into the air, relinquishing its perch to two keel-billed toucans, their iconic beaks flashing with color in the morning light. What a magical way to start the day.

But Starfish Beach isn’t just known for its birds. As the name suggests, the sandy shallows here are home to numerous starfish, resting motionless in the clear water like scattered jewels. It’s a popular destination for vacationers—though in the low season, especially during the relentless rains, the beach restaurants are shuttered and the crowds disappear.

With little else to do in the drizzle, we strolled along the shoreline, finding solitude among nature. A flock of howler monkeys grunted from the trees above, watching our slow progress.

Even in the rain, this place is full of quiet marvels—if you take the time to listen and look.