Blog

After sailing through quite windy weather, we arrived in Martinique. The first port where you can go through immigration control was St. Pierre. I had read that this town is called “Little Paris,” but I didn’t know about the tragic history associated with the eruption of the Mount Pelée volcano in 1902. The disaster completely destroyed the city, which was then the capital of Martinique, killing more than 20,000 people. The city has a museum dedicated to this disaster, where you can see many melted artifacts left after the huge pyroclastic flow that burned the city.

As we entered the bay, we encountered the Canadian sailing training vessel Picton Castle, which was anchored in Lunenburg near her home dock. The next morning, we saw her leaving the harbor under full sail; we learned on the Internet that she was heading back to Lunenburg, completing her eighth circumnavigation of the world.

Our stay in Saint Pierre was very pleasant. We enjoyed walking along the “Parisian” streets, visiting the disaster museum, the Eglise du Mouillage cathedral, and the ruins of the city theater. One of the most interesting visits was to the Paul Gauguin Museum, which celebrates the artist’s brief but impactful stay here in 1887. Gauguin was dazzled by the beauty of the island and the richness of its natural motifs. Shortly after his arrival, he settled with his friend and fellow artist Charles Laval in a hut located two kilometers from Saint Pierre. It was here that his famous tropically vibrant post-Impressionist style began to take shape, a style he would later fully develop in Tahiti.

Dominica is a rare jewel in the Caribbean, a place where nature reigns supreme and the rhythms of life are dictated by the ebb and flow of the natural world. Its volcanic landscapes, rich biodiversity, and vibrant cultural heritage create a unique destination that offers something for everyone, from the adventurous explorer to the weary traveler seeking solace. As the world becomes increasingly urbanized and frenetic, Dominica stands as a reminder of the beauty and tranquility that can be found in nature, a sanctuary that invites us to slow down, breathe deeply, and appreciate the wonders of the natural world.

Boiling Lake… The name alone conjures excitement! We decided to witness this natural wonder firsthand. However, after researching the journey in detail, we realized it wouldn’t be a walk in the park; it demanded strength, perseverance, and a touch of madness. But the choice was clear: it was now or never. Childhood is about discovering new things, and as adults, we must seize the moment because who knows if there will be another chance? With our curiosity overpowering any reservations, we set off early in the morning, wisely opting to take along a local guide. When we travel, we have a rule: contribute to the local economy. Supporting small businesses, whether through tours, museums, gifts, or restaurants, is the best investment you can make.

The 10-kilometer hike through the mountains, with an elevation gain of 1,000 meters, did not disappoint. The journey started in a humid jungle, which soon morphed into otherworldly landscapes, akin to the dawn of time (or so I imagine). As we descended into the crater, we were greeted by the sulfurous breath of the “underworld.”

At the highest point of the trail, Morne Nicholls Peak, we were rewarded with a stunning 360-degree view of the island: ridges and peaks, ocean vistas, valleys, and quaint mountain villages. Then the descent began, so steep it felt nearly vertical at times. Reaching the Valley of Desolation, we found ourselves amidst bubbling springs and hot streams, with stones painted in a palette of yellow, orange, black, gray, white, and ochre. Here, we took a well-deserved break. Our lunch? Eggs boiled right in a hot spring—a delicious and unique meal.

After our rest, a few small climbs and descents remained before we reached Boiling Lake, which we accomplished without much fuss. Strangely, the return journey was both easy and pleasant. Who would have thought?

Fun Facts about Boiling Lake:

1. Geological Marvel: Boiling Lake is closely tied to the volcanic activity of Dominica, part of the Lesser Antilles volcanic arc. It sits in a collapsed volcanic crater within the Morne-Trois-Piton National Park, showcasing the island’s fiery nature.
2. Natural Fumarole: Boiling Lake is essentially a submerged fumarole, measuring roughly 60 meters in diameter and 60 meters deep. Though it may seem small, it’s the second largest of its kind in the world, trailing only Frying Pan Lake in New Zealand.
3. Geothermal Activity: The lake’s boiling water is a result of intense geothermal activity. Magma chambers below the Earth heat the groundwater, causing it to bubble and steam. The water near the edges is a toasty 85 degrees Celsius, while the temperature at the center’s boiling epicenter remains unmeasured.
4. National Symbol: Boiling Lake is a symbol of Dominica’s unique and dynamic landscape, even featuring on the country’s national currency. It’s a bubbling testament to the island’s vibrant natural identity.

Happy exploring and stay curious! 🌋