Author: Igor

One of the most delightful surprises awaiting us on Bug Island was tucked away on the opposite shore from the main anchorage — Ibin’s Restaurant, perched right on the beach that shares its name. Built on wooden stilts and roofed with woven palm leaves, the modest structure might appear humble at first glance, but it turned out to be a true cultural and culinary treasure.

Despite its simple, rustic style, Ibin’s has become a vibrant hub for passing sailors and backpackers alike. The space is filled with character: walls adorned with flags, banners, and keepsakes left behind by visiting yachts, creating a kind of living guestbook of world travelers. Most striking of all is the gallery of colorful paintings done in a local primitive style, each piece capturing the Guna Yala people’s rich worldview, folklore, and history in bold strokes and bright hues.

We had the pleasure of meeting Ibin himself — the restaurant’s founder and heart of the operation. A native Guna Yala, Ibin once left for Panama City to seek work, starting as a dishwasher in the bustling restaurant world. He worked his way up to become a chef, but like many, was forced to return home during the COVID-19 pandemic. Rather than seeing this as a setback, Ibin used it as inspiration. Drawing on his culinary skills and deep cultural roots, he launched his own beachside restaurant on Bug Island, with the help of his family.

The menu at Ibin’s is short but excellent. A delicious, generously sized pizza set us back just $10 — and the two of us could barely finish one. He also serves perfectly fried local tuna or grouper for $10, and fresh lobster for only $15. You can even order traditional coconut bread and sweet rolls made right there. It’s not just the food that’s memorable — the atmosphere is warm, relaxed, and lively.

We spent a wonderful evening here with our Australian friends Neil and Natalie, enjoying good food and conversation, and even joining in on a spontaneous dance party with a group of French sailors celebrating their captain’s birthday. It was the kind of night you don’t plan — the kind that just happens when the setting, people, and spirit are right.

Ibin’s generosity didn’t end with dinner. When we ran out of sugar and oil, he gladly sold us some from his own kitchen supplies. It’s that kind of thoughtfulness and community spirit that makes places like this unforgettable.

Now, Ibin is planning the next stage of his project: building overwater cabins to host guests overnight. His restaurant isn’t just a business — it’s a symbol of resilience, culture, and the bridge between locals and travelers in the San Blas Islands.

Thank you, Ibin, for the hospitality — and best of luck as your dream continues to grow.

Our journey through the San Blas archipelago took us further offshore, weaving between dazzling reefs and idyllic sandy islands, until we reached the easternmost group of islets — the stunning Cayos Holandeses. Here, we dropped anchor near Bug Island, which turned out to be something of a social hub for the sailing and backpacking communities alike.

The anchorage at Bug Island is a dynamic scene, constantly shifting with the arrival and departure of yachts, catamarans, and day boats ferrying backpackers along the Panama–Colombia route. Unlike the solitude of the outer islands, Bug Island pulses with low-key activity and easygoing camaraderie.

As we came ashore, we were greeted by two eager, scruffy island dogs who seemed to take their role as welcoming committee very seriously — tails wagging furiously at the sight of new visitors (and perhaps the hope of snacks tucked in someone’s pocket).

The island offers a wonderful space to relax and connect. There’s a beach bar serving cold beers and tropical cocktails, shaded communal tables perfect for meals and conversation, and a volleyball court where impromptu international teams form without hesitation. Hammocks swing gently between palms, and tent spots dot the shore for backpackers staying overnight. In the evenings, a campfire often becomes the center of laughter and stories shared in many languages.

Just a short swim from our boat, vibrant coral reefs await in crystal-clear, warm turquoise water — perfect for snorkeling. It’s easy to lose track of time among the shimmering fish, soft corals, and swaying sea fans. Here, nature is both playground and sanctuary.

Bug Island reminded us that while sailing can be a solitary pursuit, it also has a unique way of bringing people together — from all walks of life, all corners of the world. Good company, calm waters, coral gardens, and coconut palms… what more could one ask for?