The beating heart of Nova Scotia

We’re not exactly city slickers, and the hustle and bustle of big metropolises, bustling harbours, and the chaotic dance of massive cargo ships and cruise liners isn’t exactly our usual scene. The last time we found ourselves in such a maritime maze was a couple of months ago in Montreal. But, when we sailed into Halifax Harbor, it felt like we’d crashed the biggest maritime party of the year!

Picture this: a couple of cruise ships bidding us farewell with a grand wave, and a colossal container ship towering over us, busy unloading its cargo. It was a clear sign that both the touristy and businessy parts of this harbour were buzzing like a beehive on a summer day.

Our nautical adventure around the bay only revealed more of Halifax’s maritime magnificence. We’re talking stunning docks housing the military fleet, all lined up like soldiers on parade, and the impressive buildings of the Irving shipbuilding company, where not one, not two, but five Arctic offshore patrol ships had taken their maiden voyages, and another was eagerly waiting its turn on the stocks. It was like a naval enthusiast’s dream come true.

But wait, there’s more! The berths of the Bedford Institute of Oceanography were brimming with activity, giving us the unmistakable vibe that we’d landed in a place that was all about industry, tourism, and defence – the beating heart of Nova Scotia.

As twilight began to cast its enchanting spell, we finally arrived at the Dartmouth Yacht Club, where a young harbormaster’s assistant greeted us with all the enthusiasm of someone who’d just discovered pirate treasure. And let’s not forget the pièce de résistance: a long-awaited hot shower awaited us in the yacht club building. Ahoy to cleanliness!

The next day brought an expected reunion with our old friend and classmate from the Odesa Hydrometeorological Institute, the one and only Yuri Geshelin, who now is a scientist at the Bedford Institute of Oceanography. With Yuri’s guidance, we stocked up on provisions that would make any seafarer’s mouth water, and we made memories that would last a lifetime. It was a reunion worth sailing all this way for!

Passing entry to Halifax Harbour
North-West Arm
South-End Container Terminal
Georges Island National Historic Site
Halifax Downtown
Queens Wharves
Sailing through the Halifax Harbour
The Centre for Ocean Ventures and Entrepreneurship (COVE)
Passing under the Macdonald Bridge
Canada’s Atlantic Fleet Dockyard
New built  Arctic Offshore Patrol Ships
Irving Shipyard facilities provide the largest undercover shipbuilding operation in North America.
Bedford Institute of Oceanography
Meeting with Yuri

Heading to Halifax!

The day we had eagerly awaited had arrived – after a remarkable 2.5 months of navigating the St.Lawrence River, Gulf of St.Lawrence, Lake Brass d’Or, the Atlantic Ocean, covering an impressive 1.5 thousand miles, and weathering the storms that tested our sails and patience, we find ourselves at the long-awaited finish line of the first leg of our journey. Along this incredible voyage, we’ve encountered torn sails and broken engine parts, forged unforgettable friendships, and been spellbound by the breathtaking sights that unfolded before us. We’ve meticulously conducted over 50 CTD casts, unravelling the physics and chemistry of the depths below.

Now, on the horizon, awaits a well-deserved respite at the Dartmouth Yacht Club, where we’ll reunite with cherished friends and colleagues. It’s here that we’ll prepare our trusty yacht for the next leg of our adventure – a voyage along the eastern coast, bound for the sun-soaked Bahamas and the enchanting Caribbean islands. Along this path, we’ll explore the mystical Gulf Stream, unlocking its secrets and furthering our mission of Sail for Science.

As we embark on this next chapter, we do so with hearts full of anticipation and a profound love for the art of sailing and science. More Sail for Science, more discoveries, and boundless joy lie ahead, reminding us that the journey itself is as rewarding as the destination. Stay tuned!

Hidden gem

We debated for quite a while about whether to make a 4-mile detour from our planned route, but the description of the marina, complete with hiking trails, tipped the scales in favour of Liscombe Lodge Marina. And let me tell you, our decision paid off big time. We stumbled upon an absolute gem – not only did we find a fantastic hiking trail, but we also got a bargain on anchorage at just 50 dollars, and it even came with a swimming pool and a jacuzzi! Yes, you heard that right – a yachtsman’s dream come true – the perfect combo of stretching our sea legs and steaming our bodies.

This delightful marina is nestled within Liscombe Lodge, which could be a bonus for those who fancy spending time in the lodge, grabbing a bite at the restaurant, or perhaps even renting a room. But as for us, we’re content with our trusty bed and breakfast right on our boat.

Now, let’s talk about that hiking trail. It meandered along the river, treating us to views of cascading waterfalls. We were forewarned that the trail might be a bit wet, so we wisely put on our yachting boots. As we approached the river, we were taken aback by the copious amount of white foam on the surface. However, it turned out that this frothy phenomenon was a result of organic matter being washed away from the local rocks, creating this mesmerizing foam as the water tumbled over the waterfalls.

After a 5-kilometer trek, we finally arrived at a suspension bridge that offered a breathtaking view of a magnificent waterfall, framed by rugged cliffs. And as if that wasn’t enough, we stumbled upon a salmon ladder, a specially carved path to help salmon on their way. Sure, the trail was a bit on the soggy side at times, with water occasionally creeping up almost to the tops of our boots, but the sights we beheld were worth every step and splash!

Docking near the Liskombe Lodge
Ukrainian flag at the entrance to the Lodge!
Warm jacuzzi with a pool – what else do you need?
Misty morning
CTD-cast in the morning
The surface of the Liskombe River full of unknown origins foam
Results of CTD-cast confirmed the high concentration of organic matter in the top 1m reaching 70ppb!
Renting kayaks/canoe on a shore
Wedding ceremony place – looks like the benches were taken from a church.
Trailhead of the Liskomb River trail -10km loop along the river
An adorable little guy found in the moss
Family of the Turkey Tail fungi
Family of hedgehog fungi
Yellow-throated wobbler
Forest creature
Relaxing moments
Witch circles on the water
Floating leaves
Osprey
Here we are!
Foam!
On the rocks
Between the rocks
Pattern
Still and moving
Suspended bridge and waterfall
Two on the bridge
Waterfall
Yellows
The suspended bridge from the waterfall
Salmon ladder from the top
Salmon ladder from the bottom
Another suspended bridge
Reflections on the white foam
Boggy path
Fall colours
White river
Cascades near the lodge
Low tide
Goodbye, Liscombe Lodge! Thanks for having us!