Great Inagua Island

We decided to venture further south, taking an unconventional route through the island of Grand Inagua, the second-largest island in the Bahamas and home to a significant population of flamingos. The island is renowned for its salt extraction, a process where seawater is pumped into special salt ponds and evaporated by the sun. Salt production has been ongoing since the 16th century, and today it is overseen by Morton Salt, making it the second-largest producer in North America, churning out 1 million tons of salt annually. Witnessing the evaporation and collection of salt was truly fascinating, taking into account my professional interest in measurements of seawater salinity (www.salinometry.com). Although flamingos also inhabit the salt ponds, we were unfortunate not to catch a glimpse of them—our guide informed us that the absence of these majestic birds, symbols of the Bahamas, was unusual, possibly due to strong winds which they typically avoid.

The island’s capital and the sole harbor is Matthew Town, named after George Matthew, a 19th-century Governor of the Bahamas. We docked there to repair our torn jib halyard, damaged during our passage to the island. The harbor was bustling with ships from the Bahamas Navy, along with a state dock offering docking for a steep fee of 16 dollars (!!!) per day. In Matthew Town, we discovered a functioning lighthouse that we could ascend—an unexpected stroke of luck! From the lighthouse lantern’s vantage point, we spotted a flock of White-tailed Tropicbirds and a solitary dolphin gracefully swimming by, creating a mesmerizing sight against the backdrop of turquoise waters!

Although we managed to repair the jib halyard ourselves, it was heartening to receive assistance from our dock neighbors Dave (S/V Shelagh), James (S/V Blue Argos), and the versatile local Jak of all trades, Emmanuel. A heartfelt thanks to everyone for their help!

Leaving Castle Island
After 10 miles of smooth sailing our jib halyard (1/4″ sst wire) get broken
Matthew Town is the only place in Great Inagua Island where we can dock to fix the jib halyard
The main street of Matthew Town with an old salt packhouse
Post office
Three colors of Bahamas – blue, yellow, and black
Blossoming cactuses near the Church
Working lighthouse!!!
We allowed even go up!
Nice view from the top of the lighthouse!
Shadow
Rose Lake
White-tailed Tropicbird
Dolphin
Brine ponds
Sea salt
Harvesting salt
Cactuses only survive in this environment.
Formation of salt deposits
Crystals of salt everywhere
Salty birds
Pink salt water
Morton Bahamas Ltd owns this saltwork
Mountains of salt ready for shipping
Salt is transported to docked ships
Colors of salt

The only flamingos we’ve seen:(
Leaving Matthew Town for the Dominican Republic
The last point of the Bahamas

Castle Island

Leaving Albert Town we went to the very south of Akinson Island, to the small Castle Island. Along the way we made three CTD casts in Datum Bay, reaching a depth of 100m. The island itself was also home to lighthouse keepers. Unfortunately, this lighthouse has also been abandoned and only the remains of buildings around speak of a bright past. Having anchored in a small bay next to another yacht, to which the owners – a young Polish couple with two children – soon returned from the shore, sailed across the Atlantic and are now exploring the Bahamas. The guys Pawel and Maria invited us to an evening bonfire with fried fish from Pawel’s “catch of the day.” Thank you guys for a pleasant time spent in your company and safe travels!

Track of sailing to Castle Island with 3 CTD casts
A new kevlar 150m line set on the winch
CTD cast with hauled sailboat
Plot of data for CTD cast#1
Plot of data for CTD cast#2
Plot of data for CTD cast#3
Approaching Castle Island
Castle Island abandoned lighthouse
There were better days…
Rusted lighthouse stairs
Wreck near the lighthouse
Two shadows walking on a beach
Talk with Pawel with the kids starting a bonfire
CTD cast with the lighthouse
Plot of data for CTD cast on the anchoring near Castle Island

Long Cay: Albert Ghost-Town

Traveling across the islands of the Bahamas from the prosperous north to the decaying south offers a complete picture of the life within these island communities. Life here has been largely shaped by the basic necessities required for survival—when certain forces, including natural disasters like hurricanes and economic declines based on local resources of salt, lead to the disappearance of once-prosperous towns. One such place is Albert Town, which at one time had up to 4,000 inhabitants. Now, it is home to just a few residents, whom we never saw.

A grocery shop
Hurricane shelter
Ruins of Sts. Augustine and David Anglican Church 
For whom the Bell Tolls?
CTD cast in the Albert Town Anchorage
Plot of CTD cast data
Sunset