Author: Igor

Sailing into Cartagena de Indias, we were immediately captivated by its blend of history, culture, and Caribbean vibrance. One of the most remarkable places to explore in this legendary port city is the Walled City of Cartagena, a UNESCO World Heritage site that stands as a living testament to its colonial past.

Stepping through the grand Clock Tower Gate (Torre del Reloj), we found ourselves transported back in time. The massive stone walls, built by the Spanish between the 16th and 18th centuries to protect against pirates and foreign invaders, still encircle the old town, preserving the essence of Cartagena’s colonial-era charm.

Inside, we wandered through cobblestone streets lined with colorful, colonial-style buildings, each adorned with wooden balconies draped in bougainvillea. The streets were alive with the rhythms of street musicians, the artistry of local vendors, and the tantalizing aromas of traditional Colombian cuisine. We stopped for a taste of arepas and fresh tropical juices—a refreshing pause in the midst of our adventure.

Our exploration led us to Plaza de los Coches, once the city’s main marketplace, and the Plaza Santo Domingo, home to the famous reclining statue by Fernando Botero. Nearby, we admired the grand San Pedro Claver Church, dedicated to the patron saint of enslaved people, a sobering reminder of Cartagena’s complex history.

As the sun began to set, we made our way to the city walls, where locals and visitors gathered to enjoy the breathtaking view of the Caribbean Sea painted in hues of orange and pink. Sitting atop these centuries-old fortifications, we reflected on how this city—once a fortress of the Spanish empire—has transformed into a vibrant cultural hub, still guarding its history while embracing the modern world.

Our visit to the Walled City of Cartagena was more than just a sightseeing trip—it was an immersion into the soul of a city that has withstood the test of time. The walls that once shielded it from invaders now embrace all who come to experience its magic. And as sailors, we couldn’t help but appreciate the timeless connection between the sea and the stories written on these ancient streets.

As the crew of SV Oceanolog continued our exploration of Cartagena, we could not miss the opportunity to visit one of the most iconic landmarks of the city—the mighty San Felipe de Barajas Castle. Rising above the city on the Hill of San Lázaro, this formidable fortress is a testament to Cartagena’s turbulent past and its strategic importance during the colonial era.

Built by the Spanish in 1536 and later expanded in 1657, San Felipe de Barajas was designed to withstand both time and invaders. Its imposing walls, intricate network of tunnels, and strategic vantage points made it nearly impenetrable, fending off numerous attacks, including the infamous assault by the French pirate Baron de Pointis in 1697. Standing before its immense stone walls, we felt transported back to an era when this fortress was the last line of defense against those who sought to claim Cartagena’s riches.

We climbed the steep ramparts, following the pathways where Spanish soldiers once marched, and marveled at the panoramic view of the city and the Caribbean Sea beyond. From this height, the contrast between the historic old town and the modern skyline of Cartagena was breathtaking—a visual representation of the city’s evolution through centuries.

One of the most fascinating features of San Felipe is its labyrinth of underground tunnels, designed to carry sound over long distances, allowing defenders to hear approaching enemies before they could strike. Some passages remain open to visitors, and walking through these dimly lit corridors, we could almost hear the echoes of history whispering through the stone.

Our visit to San Felipe de Barajas was more than just a tour—it was a step back in time, a chance to immerse ourselves in Cartagena’s rich heritage and resilience. As sailors, we appreciate fortifications like these, which once protected maritime trade routes and the treasures of the New World. Leaving the fortress behind, we carried with us a deeper understanding of the history that shaped this beautiful and vibrant city.

Upon arriving in Cartagena, we docked at Club de Pesca Marina, uniquely located within the historic Fort San Sebastián del Pastelillo—one of the city’s former Spanish forts. Our exploration began with the nearest neighborhood, Getsemaní, just a 10-minute walk from the marina, crossing the bridge that links Isla de Manga to the city center.

Once a working-class district, Getsemaní has transformed into the creative and cultural heart of Cartagena, home to artists, musicians, and artisans. The area is full of vibrant street art, colorful colonial facades, and charming balconies draped with flowers. The architecture, with its intricately carved porticoes and pilasters, is a delightful mix of historical elegance and artistic expression. The streets pulse with life—street musicians, open-air cafés, and bustling plazas create an intoxicating rhythm that invites you to wander for hours, always discovering something new.

At the heart of Getsemaní lies Plaza de la Trinidad, a lively square where both locals and visitors gather, surrounded by small bars, restaurants, and street vendors offering delicious local snacks like arepas and empanadas. The district is also known for its affordable boutique hotels and lively nightlife, making it a hotspot for travelers.

Just beyond Getsemaní, we visited Parque Centenario, a green oasis where iguanas, monkeys, and sloths roam freely—an unexpected urban wildlife encounter! Nearby, the Pegasus Pier (Muelle de los Pegasos), adorned with grand statues of winged horses, offers stunning views of Cartagena’s modern skyline, with its towering skyscrapers contrasting sharply against the colonial charm of the old city. From the waterfront, we could even spot our yacht, Oceanolog, nestled at the edge of the marina, completing the picture of our arrival in this remarkable city.