Author: Igor

The 60 mile route from Curacao to Aruba was another test for both us and the boat. This area is known for its strong winds, high waves and significant currents – although all these natural phenomena were favorable to us, their combined influence caused a number of problems both in boat control and in maintaining the sails on the waves. We reached the southern end of the island by 5 o’clock, tired, but happy that everything was behind us, we decided to go to the nearest bay for a rest – the way to it was through the channel between the coral reef on one side and a huge abandoned refinery on the other – I would never have thought that there could be industrial production of such a scale on the Caribbean islands, apparently these are echoes of the middle of the last century, when oil refining gave the main profit to the island, now it is tourism and recreation. The next morning we went to the only place in Aruba where you can go through customs check – the port of Barcadero, not the most welcoming and equipped place to visit. It is very strange to see such an attitude towards sailboats visiting the island – we have never seen anything like this before! The way to the dock where the authorities are located was quite difficult – between sandbanks, docks and ships cruising in the cargo port. The concrete pier with tires for shock absorption did not promise anything good, while it was indicated that we could not move more than a beam of a hull from the dock, where the sandbank begins. Maneuvering with a strong tailwind was difficult, but the main reason became clear later – it turned out that one of the wooden blocks holding the pulleys for controlling the rudder quadrant had come unstuck from the boat’s hull (!!!) and the rudder control cables were sagging – I could hardly keep the boat on course, but when mooring it was critical, in short, we scraped the blue stripe on our newly painted hull on the concrete pier just under the name of the boat. After solving all the formal procedures, we went to the neighboring anchorage to heal our boat’s steering wounds.

Our visit to Willemstad wouldn’t have been complete without exploring Otrobanda, one of the city’s most vibrant and historic districts. Unlike the iconic pastel-colored waterfront of Punda, Otrobanda has a more rugged charm—narrow streets lined with colonial-era buildings, some beautifully restored, others wearing the marks of time.

Crossing the Queen Emma Bridge from Punda, we stepped into what locals call the “other side” (Otrobanda literally means “the other shore” in Papiamentu). The district was once home to freed slaves and working-class families, and over the centuries, it evolved into a cultural melting pot. Today, it’s buzzing with street art, cafés, and small businesses that reflect Curaçao’s rich history and diversity.

As we wandered through the maze of colorful alleys, we stumbled upon lively plazas where locals gathered, reggae music drifted from open windows, and the scent of fried plantains and fresh seafood filled the air.

Otrobanda is a place of contrasts—history and modernity, struggle and resilience, restoration and decay—all coexisting in a way that makes it one of Willemstad’s most fascinating districts. It was an unforgettable stop on our Curaçao journey, where every corner had a story to tell.

To explore the northern part of Curaçao, we rented a car—bringing us back to our old way of discovering new places. It also made grocery shopping and refilling our propane tank much easier. I quickly regained my driving skills—luckily, a yacht’s steering wheel isn’t too different from a car’s!

Our route took us along the island’s eastern coast, where steady trade winds drive up powerful waves. Wind turbines dot the shoreline, harnessing this relentless energy to power coastal villages. We visited two national parks—Christoffel Park and Shete Boka—where we witnessed the raw power of the sea colliding with a rugged, coral-carved coastline. Massive fountains of water erupted through narrow blowholes, like cannon fire saluting the eternal battle between ocean and rock. It was a striking contrast: the restless force of the present meeting the silent, fossilized remnants of the past.

Our journey ended at Westpunt, the northwestern tip of the island, known for its stunning beaches and picturesque seaside villages. In one of them, Forte Playa, we enjoyed lunch at a cliffside restaurant built on the ruins of an old fort. We sampled Curaçao’s national dish, Keshi Yena, in both traditional and vegetarian versions—a perfect way to end the day.

And on that high (and delicious) note, I’ll wrap up this entry. Bon appétit!