Author: Igor

The primary motivation behind our journey to Mount Desert Island was the irresistible pull of Acadia National Park. Fortuitously, the weather smiled upon us, and on the second day of our sojourn in Northeast Harbor, the promise of clear skies lured us once again to the mountains for a bird’s-eye view of the ocean and land.

This time, our compass pointed us toward Acadia Mountain, situated on the opposite side of Somes Fjord. The journey unfolded along a picturesque road, with the sea on one side and granite cliffs on the other. En route, we passed numerous opulent estates nestled in the woods, but it was the little village of Somesville that captured our hearts. As the oldest settlement on Mount Desert Island, it marked the initiation of European-style habitation when Abraham Somes arrived with his family in 1761, embarking on a new life.

The focal point of the village was a white, arched wooden footbridge that stole our attention. So captivating was the bridge that we momentarily missed the view on the opposite side of the road, revealing Somes Harbor with Cadillac Mountain as its majestic backdrop (a realization that dawned on us later). We immersed ourselves in the historical ambiance of this village, perusing educational boards and capturing the essence in photographs.

Our next destination was a parking lot where we securely stowed our bicycles, preparing to ascend the steep Acadia Trail. While not as challenging as the climb to Cadillac Mountain, the trail offered its own rewards in terms of breathtaking scenery. The view from the summit was nothing short of fantastic. With the tourist season waning, the trail boasted scarce foot traffic, and Acadia Peak belonged to us, accompanied only by a family of ravens gracefully navigating the clouds above.

Acadia National Park was the prime motivator behind our chosen route. Although it might seem modest on a map, it stands as the crown jewel of the East Coast, boasting a harmonious blend of ocean, mountains, and enchanting historical towns. As the sun heralded a new day, we unfurled our bikes and set our course for Mount Cadillac, the Atlantic seaboard’s highest point and the privileged vantage point for witnessing daybreak in the USA.

Our biking sojourn along the park’s impeccable trails, known as “carriage roads,” was a pure delight. Constructed between 1913 and 1940 under the patronage of John D. Rockefeller Jr., these roads were initially designed for horse-drawn carriages, offering visitors an immersion in nature free from modern distractions. Winding seamlessly through woods and rocks, these roads are adorned with granite dragon teeth along the edges, and the bridges, crafted from granite, stand as art pieces in themselves.

Upon reaching the end of Bubble Pond, we parted ways with our trusty two-wheelers as the trail inclined steeply. The journey became more adventurous (and rewarding) than we had envisioned, the trail was steep and we even lost our way once, but were able to find the way thanks to Google map. Difficulties didn’t bother us at all, and vice versa we enjoyed every step on the smooth granite rocks cloaked in a thick carpet of moss and lichen evoking our admiration. Towering pines and balsam firs on the cliff’s edges provided visual delights as we ascended, revealing a more breathtaking landscape with each step.

However, as we climbed higher, we noticed some peaks around us veiled by clouds. We began to wonder if we were destined to end up in the clouds too. The allure of mountain hiking lies in the panoramic view from the summit, where, exhausted yet content, you can marvel at the world below. Cadillac promised us an almost 360-degree view!

Alas, upon reaching the end of the trail, we were met with the disappointment of fog and a brisk northern wind, obscuring the promised view. Undeterred, our story took an unexpected turn. As we began our descent with the perspective to continue in the darkness (eventually), a little white van pulled up, and a friendly lady beckoned us to join. Gratefully, we accepted the offer, revelling in the warmth of the cozy van. April, our newfound friend, explained that she had come to Cadillac Mountain to witness the sunset but was thwarted by the weather. Meeting someone with a similar mindset is always a pleasure. Soon, we emerged from the cloud cover, greeted by a breathtaking view below: the ocean adorned with numerous islands. Isn’t it wonderful?

April dropped us off at our bicycles, and we pedalled our way back home (to the boat). The final leg of our journey unfolded in darkness, a regrettable reminder of the short days in November.

Embarking on the 100-mile journey between Yarmouth and Bar Harbor turned out to be a challenging task for both our trusty boat and its intrepid crew. As darkness cloaked the sea, a sturdy northwest wind barged in at 25 knots, unleashing waves up to 2 meters. These sea conditions demanded a strategic shift to motor sailing. We took turns standing watch in two-hour intervals, grabbing precious moments of rest that amounted to no more than an hour. The storm raged unabated through the night until the first light of dawn revealed the silhouette of Mount Desert Island. Yet again, we marvelled at the perks of our stout and lengthy vessel, excelling in stability amidst the tumultuous waves, thanks in no small part to the robust 1-inch thick hull. The genius design by the renowned William Gardner, complete with a sharp bow slicing through the waves, further bolstered our maritime mettle. And the cherry on top? Our engine purred along flawlessly!

Initially set on making port in Bar Harbor, a chat with the harbormaster yielded a change of plans. Bar Harbor, it seemed, was sans customs control at the moment. The harbormaster’s sage advice pointed us toward Northeast Harbor Marina. Not a big deal, just an additional 10 miles through a barrier of lobster traps. When we were going along the Island, the speed went down to 3 knots. It surprised us, we decided it was a tide current against us. But gradually speed diminished to 1 knot, we were barely moving. At that point, we began to worry. We were afraid something was wrong with the engine. Or prop. Or something else. But then we noticed a rope following us along the boat. You can guess what it was. We were towing lobster trap! We knew that there were a lot of them here and we did our best to avoid them. But… We caught it by the keel and after a backward maneuver, we released the trap and got full speed.

In the Northeast Harbour Marina, we underwent customs control and got a berth on the dock at the friendly marina’s office. We are in the United States of America!

After resting a bit our weary sea legs, we decided to explore the surroundings before darkness fell. For more than a century, Northeast Harbor on Maine’s Mount Desert Island has been one of the most exclusive summer retreats in the world. During the 1880s and 1890s, families such as the Rockefellers, Pulitzers, Fords, Morgans, Astors and Vanderbilts – many of whose descendants still come here – built grand homes here.
From the very first glance, we could see how stylish this little town is. There are houses of various sizes and shapes, but all of them have one main thing in common: they are designed in Shingle Style and finished with wooden shingles. Behind the apparent simplicity, one can guess the thoughtfulness of every detail in the complete absence of kitsch.