Month: December 2023

The journey from Great Bridge to Coinjok stands out for its pristine landscapes along the canal banks, offering an unparalleled abundance of bald eagles. Much of the route unfolded in the open, providing a perfect opportunity for sailing. However, the serenity was interrupted just a mile before reaching the marina when we ran aground, once again within the navigation channel. Grateful for our BoatUS membership, we promptly called for a towing boat, and within an hour, a 78-year-old captain skillfully maneuvered to our rescue. With a deft throw of a thick towing rope, he pulled us out of the shallows.

As the towing boat left us, the cruise boat Roaming Dream, an old friend, caught up with us. Captain Topher, from the wheelhouse, inquired about our well-being. Docking at the Coinjock Marina, we enjoyed dinner together at its restaurant, which boasted an excellent selection of seafood. The next morning, after conducting CTD cast, we resumed our journey along the canal.

The Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) spans 3,000 miles along the Atlantic coast of the United States, running from Massachusetts to Florida and extending into the Gulf of Mexico to Texas. It incorporates natural inlets, rivers, bays, and sounds, as well as artificial canals, providing a navigable route with fewer open-sea hazards. Our journey along the waterway began in Norfolk, where it forms part of the Elizabeth River.

Passing through an industrial landscape adorned with a variety of bridges, we reached the Great Bridge Lock. Drawing on our experiences with locks on the St. Lawrence River, we navigated through safely. Beyond the lock, we encountered the Great Bridge Bridge, narrowly missing the opening, with the next scheduled for an hour later. Opting to stay, we moored at the free dock near the Battle of Great Bridge Museum. Though the museum was closed, informative boards surrounding it recounted the events of the 1775 battle during the American Revolutionary Wars, resulting in a rebel victory and the loss of British control in the Dominion of Virginia.

This location also provided a delightful opportunity to explore the adjacent pine forest along the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal, which commences here. After conducting CTD cast at the dock the next morning, we continued our journey along this scenic channel.

The overnight journey from Ocean City to Norfolk unfolded exceptionally smoothly, with calm winds and waves—though we wouldn’t have minded a bit of sailing breeze. The tunnels beneath the entrance to Chesapeake Bay added an interesting dimension to the trip. Riding the current on the motor, we arrived ahead of schedule and, in the darkness, opted to dock at Rebel Marina instead of heading to Norfolk Harbor. The warm, homely atmosphere at Rebel Marina was welcoming, though the distant proximity to Norfolk posed a challenge for city exploration via taxi. The next day, we relocated to the splendid Waterside Marina in Downtown Norfolk, where the dockmaster, James, greeted us with care and attention.

En route to the marina, we witnessed Norfolk’s claim to fame—the world’s largest naval base, teeming with naval ships, including six aircraft carriers. Coming from Sevastopol, a city with the Black Sea and Ukrainian fleets, the openness of the naval base here was remarkable. Passing close to an aircraft carrier was an awe-inspiring experience, and military boats promptly escorted us away from the navigation channel with flashing lights. The sheer size of the aircraft carrier, as well as a passing container ship, left a lasting impression.

Our two-day stay in Norfolk involved weathering a storm and exploring the city. The Nauticus Museum, accompanied by the real battle cruiser Wisconsin moored nearby, provided fascinating insights into ship life. During a bike ride around the city, Irina had a memorable encounter with the water—caught on the step while taxiing close to the pier, she and her bicycle took an unexpected plunge. With the help of a good samaritan, Iryna was swiftly rescued, but the bike met a watery fate. A determined effort with a dinghy anchor, in waters about 5 meters deep, successfully retrieved the sunken bicycle.

In the marina, we reunited with old travel companions Topher and Arianna, along with their wonderful children Bishop and Harrison. They, too, were en route to the Bahamas on their 58-foot powerboat, Roaming Dreams. Arianna’s Ukrainian roots led to a pleasant language exchange. Interestingly, they had also lived in Ottawa at one point, stationed at the Chrysler Marina alongside us. It’s a small world!

Once the storm subsided and Iryna dried off, we set sail along the Intracoastal Waterway, ready for new adventures and challenges.