Author: Igor

Headlands with lighthouses have always fascinated us, and when we discovered that a brief detour along our route would grant us the chance to visit the uniquely adorned Cape Lookout Lighthouse, situated in a well-protected bay, we enthusiastically decided to dedicate the entire day there before Christmas. How else could one find peace and joy than by dropping anchor at the edge of the earth, beneath the rhythmic flashes of a beautiful lighthouse? Walking along endless sandy beaches, we observed the diverse animal world engrossed in their daily pursuits of obtaining their “daily bread,” or the catch of the day. Our old friends, the Northern Gannets, elegantly pierced the water’s surface with their dagger-like bodies. Pelicans skillfully caught fish with wide-open beaks, and dolphins orchestrated mesmerizing group performances, driving schools of fish in coordinated leaps. The sandy beaches showcased an array of shells, each boasting amazing colours and shapes. Dunes stood as silent guardians over this entire natural spectacle. And yes, we began to feel the warm breath of the Gulf Stream—for the first time, we opted to forgo the services of our diesel heater; 18 degrees Celsius was already warm enough for our evenings. It was an extraordinary day that gave us a joyful feeling of unity with the surrounding nature, offering peace and warmth on this radiant Holiday. Merry Christmas!

The morning after the night’s anchorage turned out to be completely quiet – the mirror-like surface of the Alligator River reflected both the sky and the trees on the banks, and movement along it bore some kind of surreal image of inverted space. After completing our morning CTD cast, we set out on a journey along the mirror and wondered – why Alligator River? The name seemed to come from the resemblance of the river’s outline to an alligator, but in fact, these animals are present on its banks. We didn’t see any alligators, but again, there were plenty of eagles and other birds. At the end of the day, we docked at the R.E. Mayo Seafood Marina – a fishing boatyard that offers docks for transient boats and charges such a minimal fee for its services ( $16 for our boat) that it beat the prices even of Canadian dock fishermen, who charged $20 per boat. In addition, the marina store had a good selection of seafood at attractive prices.

The journey from Great Bridge to Coinjok stands out for its pristine landscapes along the canal banks, offering an unparalleled abundance of bald eagles. Much of the route unfolded in the open, providing a perfect opportunity for sailing. However, the serenity was interrupted just a mile before reaching the marina when we ran aground, once again within the navigation channel. Grateful for our BoatUS membership, we promptly called for a towing boat, and within an hour, a 78-year-old captain skillfully maneuvered to our rescue. With a deft throw of a thick towing rope, he pulled us out of the shallows.

As the towing boat left us, the cruise boat Roaming Dream, an old friend, caught up with us. Captain Topher, from the wheelhouse, inquired about our well-being. Docking at the Coinjock Marina, we enjoyed dinner together at its restaurant, which boasted an excellent selection of seafood. The next morning, after conducting CTD cast, we resumed our journey along the canal.