Author: Igor

Yarmouth, nestled on the southern edge of Nova Scotia, is practically the gateway to the world’s largest lobster ground. I’ve scoured every nook and cranny of Nova Scotia, and nowhere else have I witnessed such a lobster trap extravaganza. It’s like the lobster capital of the universe.

We sailed into the marina fashionably late, arriving after the sailing season had gracefully bowed out. But don’t let that fool you – the port was bustling with energy, thanks to the upcoming lobster season. The town was taking a post-season breather when museums and information centers decided to play hide-and-seek until the next season. The streets wore a deserted look, the trees had shed their leaves, creating the perfect backdrop to appreciate the town’s unique architecture.

Before tackling the aquatic rollercoaster around Cape Sable, the southern tip of Nova Scotia, we made a strategic pitstop at Port La Tour, just shy of the cape. Why, you ask? Well, let me spill the tidal beans. Cape Sable dances with some serious tidal forces, thanks to the dramatic ebb and flow from the Bay of Fundy – home to the highest in the world tides, reaching a towering 18 meters.

In this watery ballet around Cape Sable, currents can go a bit haywire, swirling in multiple directions at speeds up to 3 knots. Imagine trying to waltz your way through a counter-current phase – not the smoothest dance move. So, what’s the savvy sailor’s strategy? Wait for the passing current, hitch a ride, and enjoy an extra boost of 3 knots. Smart, right?

So, there we were, making a turn into Upper Port La Tour – a pint-sized fishing haven shielded by sturdy breakwaters. It was fashionably late, and the only soul we encountered was a passing cyclist, probably wondering why anyone would anchor at that hour.

With a tight schedule dictated by the currents, our wake-up call was set for a jaw-dropping 3am. Under the cloak of darkness, we’d bid adieu to the harbour, riding the current at speeds hitting a whopping 10 knots. Night sailing, anyone?

Rolling into Yarmouth, we made a pitstop at the delightful natural harbour of Lockeport, which sits on an island, connected to the mainland by a road. Picture this: a fishing village buzzing with anticipation as it readies for the upcoming lobster season, set to open its crustaceous curtains in just a couple of weeks. We couldn’t help but be amused by the spectacle of married couples meticulously accessorizing their boats with lobster cages, all while time played the role of a speedy sprinter.

In the midst of this pre-season hustle, we struck up a chat with a charming couple who generously shared the nitty-gritty details of the lobster-prep extravaganza. Time, it seemed, was in a frenzy, and business was kicking into high gear.

As we strolled through the village, a hidden gem revealed itself — a gorgeous sandy beach stretching for a couple of kilometres – it should be nice to relax here in the summer when the lobster season ends. Who knew lobster season prep could be such a seaside spectacle?