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The morning after the night’s anchorage turned out to be completely quiet – the mirror-like surface of the Alligator River reflected both the sky and the trees on the banks, and movement along it bore some kind of surreal image of inverted space. After completing our morning CTD cast, we set out on a journey along the mirror and wondered – why Alligator River? The name seemed to come from the resemblance of the river’s outline to an alligator, but in fact, these animals are present on its banks. We didn’t see any alligators, but again, there were plenty of eagles and other birds. At the end of the day, we docked at the R.E. Mayo Seafood Marina – a fishing boatyard that offers docks for transient boats and charges such a minimal fee for its services ( $16 for our boat) that it beat the prices even of Canadian dock fishermen, who charged $20 per boat. In addition, the marina store had a good selection of seafood at attractive prices.

The journey from Great Bridge to Coinjok stands out for its pristine landscapes along the canal banks, offering an unparalleled abundance of bald eagles. Much of the route unfolded in the open, providing a perfect opportunity for sailing. However, the serenity was interrupted just a mile before reaching the marina when we ran aground, once again within the navigation channel. Grateful for our BoatUS membership, we promptly called for a towing boat, and within an hour, a 78-year-old captain skillfully maneuvered to our rescue. With a deft throw of a thick towing rope, he pulled us out of the shallows.

As the towing boat left us, the cruise boat Roaming Dream, an old friend, caught up with us. Captain Topher, from the wheelhouse, inquired about our well-being. Docking at the Coinjock Marina, we enjoyed dinner together at its restaurant, which boasted an excellent selection of seafood. The next morning, after conducting CTD cast, we resumed our journey along the canal.

The Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) spans 3,000 miles along the Atlantic coast of the United States, running from Massachusetts to Florida and extending into the Gulf of Mexico to Texas. It incorporates natural inlets, rivers, bays, and sounds, as well as artificial canals, providing a navigable route with fewer open-sea hazards. Our journey along the waterway began in Norfolk, where it forms part of the Elizabeth River.

Passing through an industrial landscape adorned with a variety of bridges, we reached the Great Bridge Lock. Drawing on our experiences with locks on the St. Lawrence River, we navigated through safely. Beyond the lock, we encountered the Great Bridge Bridge, narrowly missing the opening, with the next scheduled for an hour later. Opting to stay, we moored at the free dock near the Battle of Great Bridge Museum. Though the museum was closed, informative boards surrounding it recounted the events of the 1775 battle during the American Revolutionary Wars, resulting in a rebel victory and the loss of British control in the Dominion of Virginia.

This location also provided a delightful opportunity to explore the adjacent pine forest along the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal, which commences here. After conducting CTD cast at the dock the next morning, we continued our journey along this scenic channel.