Author: Igor

The Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) spans 3,000 miles along the Atlantic coast of the United States, running from Massachusetts to Florida and extending into the Gulf of Mexico to Texas. It incorporates natural inlets, rivers, bays, and sounds, as well as artificial canals, providing a navigable route with fewer open-sea hazards. Our journey along the waterway began in Norfolk, where it forms part of the Elizabeth River.

Passing through an industrial landscape adorned with a variety of bridges, we reached the Great Bridge Lock. Drawing on our experiences with locks on the St. Lawrence River, we navigated through safely. Beyond the lock, we encountered the Great Bridge Bridge, narrowly missing the opening, with the next scheduled for an hour later. Opting to stay, we moored at the free dock near the Battle of Great Bridge Museum. Though the museum was closed, informative boards surrounding it recounted the events of the 1775 battle during the American Revolutionary Wars, resulting in a rebel victory and the loss of British control in the Dominion of Virginia.

This location also provided a delightful opportunity to explore the adjacent pine forest along the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal, which commences here. After conducting CTD cast at the dock the next morning, we continued our journey along this scenic channel.

The overnight journey from Ocean City to Norfolk unfolded exceptionally smoothly, with calm winds and waves—though we wouldn’t have minded a bit of sailing breeze. The tunnels beneath the entrance to Chesapeake Bay added an interesting dimension to the trip. Riding the current on the motor, we arrived ahead of schedule and, in the darkness, opted to dock at Rebel Marina instead of heading to Norfolk Harbor. The warm, homely atmosphere at Rebel Marina was welcoming, though the distant proximity to Norfolk posed a challenge for city exploration via taxi. The next day, we relocated to the splendid Waterside Marina in Downtown Norfolk, where the dockmaster, James, greeted us with care and attention.

En route to the marina, we witnessed Norfolk’s claim to fame—the world’s largest naval base, teeming with naval ships, including six aircraft carriers. Coming from Sevastopol, a city with the Black Sea and Ukrainian fleets, the openness of the naval base here was remarkable. Passing close to an aircraft carrier was an awe-inspiring experience, and military boats promptly escorted us away from the navigation channel with flashing lights. The sheer size of the aircraft carrier, as well as a passing container ship, left a lasting impression.

Our two-day stay in Norfolk involved weathering a storm and exploring the city. The Nauticus Museum, accompanied by the real battle cruiser Wisconsin moored nearby, provided fascinating insights into ship life. During a bike ride around the city, Irina had a memorable encounter with the water—caught on the step while taxiing close to the pier, she and her bicycle took an unexpected plunge. With the help of a good samaritan, Iryna was swiftly rescued, but the bike met a watery fate. A determined effort with a dinghy anchor, in waters about 5 meters deep, successfully retrieved the sunken bicycle.

In the marina, we reunited with old travel companions Topher and Arianna, along with their wonderful children Bishop and Harrison. They, too, were en route to the Bahamas on their 58-foot powerboat, Roaming Dreams. Arianna’s Ukrainian roots led to a pleasant language exchange. Interestingly, they had also lived in Ottawa at one point, stationed at the Chrysler Marina alongside us. It’s a small world!

Once the storm subsided and Iryna dried off, we set sail along the Intracoastal Waterway, ready for new adventures and challenges.

.Ahoy, the Ocean City saga unfolds – Maryland edition! Our plot thickens as we aim for a rendezvous with our old friend Gennady Chepurin, now a Research Scientist-Oceanographer at the University of Maryland. Yet, our nautical path takes an unexpected turn – a grounding near buoy No. 13, adding a touch of maritime superstition to our tale. Following the fairway marked by buoys, we found ourselves gently acquainted with the sea floor. Cue the entrance of BoatUS, summoned by my membership, rescuing us swiftly. The towboat captain claimed we were a couple of feet away from the good depths. Proof that even with navigation buoy markings, the sea can still play tricks. At Sunset Marina, as the sun painted the sky in hues of orange, we met with Gennady – old friends meeting on the shores of Ocean City. Revisions to our provisions, a stroll on the Ocean City Boardwalk, and dinner in the marina’s restaurant – an evening etched in maritime camaraderie. Thank you, Gena, for coming, it felt so good to see you!

The following morning, fulfilled with the results of our CTD cast, we set sail on a 110-mile odyssey to Norfolk, eager for the next chapter on the open sea.