Dominica: Exploring the Indian River

Through the jungle, in a traditional Dominican rowing boat, we ventured down the Indian River, made famous by “Pirates of the Caribbean.” This river, the widest of Dominica’s 365, meanders slowly from the mountains to the Caribbean Sea, nestled between Portsmouth and Cabrits National Park.

What catapulted the Indian River to world fame wasn’t just its beauty, but the eerie witch’s house from “Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man’s Chest,” which was constructed in these tranquil waters. Several iconic scenes from the film were shot here, adding a touch of Hollywood magic to this already enchanting place.

However, the true magic of the river lies in its natural wonders. The awe-inspiring Bwa Mang trees that line the riverbanks create an almost otherworldly atmosphere, making you feel like you’ve stepped into a scene from a fantasy film.

The journey was a mesmerizing blend of cinematic nostalgia and the timeless allure of nature, leaving us spellbound by the river’s unique charm.

Exploring the Cousteau Reserve

Remarkably, on World Reefs Awareness Day on June 1st, we found ourselves in the Cousteau Reserve in Guadeloupe. This place is a diver’s paradise, a sanctuary where you can plunge into the silent world once explored by the legendary Captain Jacques Cousteau himself. And yes, you can even meet the man in bronze, resting serenely at the bottom of the sea.

Captain Cousteau first visited the Pigeon Islands in 1959, bringing with him his latest invention—the diving saucer SP-350, affectionately nicknamed “Denise.” This was the first vehicle of its kind designed to explore ocean depths. Jacques-Yves Cousteau later wrote a letter to the Director of INRA ( France’s National Research Institute for Agriculture, Food and Environment) requesting that the area be designated a protected marine reserve due to its exceptional conditions. Promoted as one of the best spots to witness coral reefs in all their glory, we arrived with tempered expectations. After all, 65 years of climate change and ocean acidification have left their mark on coral reefs worldwide.

Having dived in various locations from the Bahamas to the US Virgin Islands, we’ve seen firsthand the devastation of these once-vibrant ecosystems. Unfortunately, the story was the same here—a handful of live corals, but the majority were dead. The tropical fish were still putting on a colorful show, but poor Captain Cousteau had lost his hand! Who on earth would commit such an act of underwater vandalism?
Nevertheless, we had a fantastic time snorkeling around the islands. We even made a video to capture the beauty and the bittersweet state of the reserve. Stay tuned for more adventures and underwater discoveries.


A plot of CTD cast data with evident warming of water to almost 30degC

St. Croix Island: Christiansted

Christiansted, located on the stunning island of St. Croix in the U.S. Virgin Islands, is a small town with a big personality. While it might not be as famous as some of the other Caribbean hotspots, Christiansted has a charm that’s hard to resist and a history that’s as colorful as its pastel buildings.

As you wander through the town, you’ll quickly notice that Christiansted is a delightful blend of the old and the new. The streets are lined with beautifully preserved colonial architecture that dates back to the 18th century, a time when the town was a bustling Danish trading post. You can almost hear the echoes of pirates and traders bartering over rum and sugarcane, though today, you’re more likely to find tourists haggling over the price of a T-shirt.

One of the town’s main attractions is Fort Christiansvaern, a bright yellow fortress that looks like it was plucked straight from a postcard. Built to protect the island from pirates and privateers, the fort now stands as a reminder of a time when life in the Caribbean was a bit more adventurous (and a lot more dangerous). If you’re lucky, you might even catch a reenactment or two—though sadly, no real pirates are involved.

For history buffs, a visit to the Scale House is a must. This building once served as the official place for weighing goods (mainly sugar) before they were shipped off to faraway lands. Nowadays, it’s a museum where you can learn about the town’s trading past and maybe even try your hand at the scales—just be prepared for a reality check if you’ve been indulging in too many island treats.