Strategic Port La Tour

Before tackling the aquatic rollercoaster around Cape Sable, the southern tip of Nova Scotia, we made a strategic pitstop at Port La Tour, just shy of the cape. Why, you ask? Well, let me spill the tidal beans. Cape Sable dances with some serious tidal forces, thanks to the dramatic ebb and flow from the Bay of Fundy – home to the highest in the world tides, reaching a towering 18 meters.

In this watery ballet around Cape Sable, currents can go a bit haywire, swirling in multiple directions at speeds up to 3 knots. Imagine trying to waltz your way through a counter-current phase – not the smoothest dance move. So, what’s the savvy sailor’s strategy? Wait for the passing current, hitch a ride, and enjoy an extra boost of 3 knots. Smart, right?

So, there we were, making a turn into Upper Port La Tour – a pint-sized fishing haven shielded by sturdy breakwaters. It was fashionably late, and the only soul we encountered was a passing cyclist, probably wondering why anyone would anchor at that hour.

With a tight schedule dictated by the currents, our wake-up call was set for a jaw-dropping 3am. Under the cloak of darkness, we’d bid adieu to the harbour, riding the current at speeds hitting a whopping 10 knots. Night sailing, anyone?

Cape Roseway Lighthouse
Canadian Coast Guard Radar (ex NOMAD Radar) at Baccaro Point
Cape Negro Island Lighthouse
The Salvages Lighthouse
Docking at low tide
Sunrise – the Cape Sable Lighthouse sent us a goodbye flash
Sunrise in the Ocean
Windfarm
Frosty morning
Morning coffee
Peases Island Lighthouse
Candlebox Island Lighthouse
Moving between islands
Cape Forchu Lighthouse
Bunker Island Lighthouse at the entry to the Yarmouth Harbour

Busy cozy Lockeport

Rolling into Yarmouth, we made a pitstop at the delightful natural harbour of Lockeport, which sits on an island, connected to the mainland by a road. Picture this: a fishing village buzzing with anticipation as it readies for the upcoming lobster season, set to open its crustaceous curtains in just a couple of weeks. We couldn’t help but be amused by the spectacle of married couples meticulously accessorizing their boats with lobster cages, all while time played the role of a speedy sprinter.

In the midst of this pre-season hustle, we struck up a chat with a charming couple who generously shared the nitty-gritty details of the lobster-prep extravaganza. Time, it seemed, was in a frenzy, and business was kicking into high gear.

As we strolled through the village, a hidden gem revealed itself — a gorgeous sandy beach stretching for a couple of kilometres – it should be nice to relax here in the summer when the lobster season ends. Who knew lobster season prep could be such a seaside spectacle?

Heading to Lockeport
Lighthouse at the entry to Lockeport
Tied!
Fishermen on the wharf preparing lobster cages
Yellow-crowned Night Heron
Carters Is. Lighthouse
CTD cast near Cranberry Is.
Plot of CTD cast data

Sculpture Garden

These places feel like serendipitous gifts, offering the joy of unexpected discoveries. Once again, after unfolding our bicycles, we decided to cycle to Liverpool and explore what it had to offer. As we approached Liverpool, we nearly passed by the Garden Center, a store that didn’t particularly pique our interest at the moment. However, out of the corner of my eye, I spotted a peculiar group sculpture depicting people engaging with a raven. Intrigued, we left our bicycles and ventured to explore other sculptures amidst the dried flower pots.

While Garden Centers typically host various garden sculptures, what we encountered here was something entirely different — deeply personal and artistic. We then noticed the entrance to the Sculpture Garden, where a woman was busy clearing away old leaves. Upon inquiry about the creator and the timeline, she informed us that the owner of the center initiated this endeavor 15 years ago and continues to craft these sculptures. Little did we know what awaited us beyond the garden gates.

I won’t attempt to describe the sculptures; instead, I’ll convey my sheer delight and astonishment at what I witnessed. With an abundance of photographs capturing the essence, not everything can be showcased, and the three-dimensionality of the sculptures demands a unique presentation format. I believe I’ve managed to convey the expressionism of the sculptures and the originality of the cement-making technique.

Having strolled through the sculpture garden for over an hour (time seemed to slip away), we returned to the Garden Center, where we unexpectedly encountered the actual creator behind it all, standing behind the cash register. Ivan, Ivan Higgins — he introduced himself. Yes, it all started with garden pots, and then the idea struck: why not create sculptures for the garden? We had a delightful conversation and snapped a few photos together for memory and the blog. I hope you enjoy the pictures, or better yet, consider visiting in person.

Talking with the creator of Sculpture Garden Ivan Higgins
Thank you, Ivan!