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The day we had eagerly awaited had arrived – after a remarkable 2.5 months of navigating the St.Lawrence River, Gulf of St.Lawrence, Lake Brass d’Or, the Atlantic Ocean, covering an impressive 1.5 thousand miles, and weathering the storms that tested our sails and patience, we find ourselves at the long-awaited finish line of the first leg of our journey. Along this incredible voyage, we’ve encountered torn sails and broken engine parts, forged unforgettable friendships, and been spellbound by the breathtaking sights that unfolded before us. We’ve meticulously conducted over 50 CTD casts, unravelling the physics and chemistry of the depths below.

Now, on the horizon, awaits a well-deserved respite at the Dartmouth Yacht Club, where we’ll reunite with cherished friends and colleagues. It’s here that we’ll prepare our trusty yacht for the next leg of our adventure – a voyage along the eastern coast, bound for the sun-soaked Bahamas and the enchanting Caribbean islands. Along this path, we’ll explore the mystical Gulf Stream, unlocking its secrets and furthering our mission of Sail for Science.

As we embark on this next chapter, we do so with hearts full of anticipation and a profound love for the art of sailing and science. More Sail for Science, more discoveries, and boundless joy lie ahead, reminding us that the journey itself is as rewarding as the destination. Stay tuned!

We debated for quite a while about whether to make a 4-mile detour from our planned route, but the description of the marina, complete with hiking trails, tipped the scales in favour of Liscombe Lodge Marina. And let me tell you, our decision paid off big time. We stumbled upon an absolute gem – not only did we find a fantastic hiking trail, but we also got a bargain on anchorage at just 50 dollars, and it even came with a swimming pool and a jacuzzi! Yes, you heard that right – a yachtsman’s dream come true – the perfect combo of stretching our sea legs and steaming our bodies.

This delightful marina is nestled within Liscombe Lodge, which could be a bonus for those who fancy spending time in the lodge, grabbing a bite at the restaurant, or perhaps even renting a room. But as for us, we’re content with our trusty bed and breakfast right on our boat.

Now, let’s talk about that hiking trail. It meandered along the river, treating us to views of cascading waterfalls. We were forewarned that the trail might be a bit wet, so we wisely put on our yachting boots. As we approached the river, we were taken aback by the copious amount of white foam on the surface. However, it turned out that this frothy phenomenon was a result of organic matter being washed away from the local rocks, creating this mesmerizing foam as the water tumbled over the waterfalls.

After a 5-kilometer trek, we finally arrived at a suspension bridge that offered a breathtaking view of a magnificent waterfall, framed by rugged cliffs. And as if that wasn’t enough, we stumbled upon a salmon ladder, a specially carved path to help salmon on their way. Sure, the trail was a bit on the soggy side at times, with water occasionally creeping up almost to the tops of our boots, but the sights we beheld were worth every step and splash!

Port Felix had a few surprises for us. Our friend Ray, who had been our neighbour during the ‘Oceanolog’ wintering at Morrisburg Marina, had a brilliant suggestion for our stay in Port Felix. He recommended that we dock at a private wharf for free: the house of his sister Denise was there facing the peer. The excitement in the air, we arrived just before the sun went down, greeted by the serene solitude – no internet, not even a hint of mobile service! Naturally, this meant we couldn’t inform Denise of our arrival. However, the night turned out to be nothing short of magical. 

As we ventured onto the deck to admire the stars, the profound silence enveloped our senses. But to our delight, the night wasn’t as quiet as we expected. It began with the haunting hoot of a great horned owl, piercing the veil of darkness. Soon, we found ourselves serenaded by a symphony of unfamiliar sounds echoing in the distance – mysterious groans, sighs, and plaintive howls. They were harmonized by the haunting calls of two loons. I grabbed a flashlight, hoping to unveil the enigmatic creatures behind these sounds, but alas, the source remained elusive, hidden in the shroud of the night. Yet, beneath the dock’s edge, a mesmerizing sight awaited us – graceful sea anemones, swaying their petals under the water’s surface. It was a night of pure enchantment.

Denise, Toze, and Mouski (their dog, proudly named after Rimouski, Denise’s hometown) were at the dock early in the morning. They showered us with a warm and hospitable welcome, serving up a delightful breakfast before embarking on a tour of their beloved village. Together, we explored Port Felix, making cherished acquaintances with the locals, and even tried our hand at mackerel fishing off Toze’s preferred pier – the promise of big fish lingered in the salty air. Our fishing endeavours yielded no catches, but boredom was far from our minds as we were entertained by the vibrant wildlife. A curious seal kept a hopeful watch over us, anticipating a treat. A cormorant dove so close that I feared it might become an unintended catch, but in the end, it skillfully pilfered a fish from our neighbor’s hook and swam away, content in its conquest. An otter made a brief but endearing appearance, circling us with an inquisitive gaze before gracefully vanishing into the depths.

Port Felix, with its population of fewer than a hundred, thrives as a humble fishing village, its livelihood centred around lobster, halibut, and shrimp harvesting. One of the village’s standout attractions is a lookout point, offering breathtaking vistas of the picturesque harbour, meticulously designed in homage to Basque Captain Savalett’s ship. Our day concluded with a heartwarming dinner shared in perfect harmony. Denise presented us with warm socks – she knitted them herself! – and a little painted rock collected on Port Felix’s shore. While we couldn’t predict the future, one thing was certain – Denise and Toze had etched their place in our hearts with unforgettable memories.